ADATA XPG Battle Cruiser Mid-Tower 4 RGB Fans Tempered Glass Panel PC Case

I’ve built many PCs over the years because I like having exactly what I want without having to pay for extemporaneous items.I’ve built with Thermaltake, Corsair, Antec, and Cooler Master ATX cases. This is my first build using the XPG cases and let me tell you... it was a dream!Firstly, this case is HUGE. Not talking about just the dimensions, but the inside is absolutely cavernous. Why? Because XPG has used thin punched metal which means it doesn’t need as much support as cases I’ve used before. This translates to more space for your components. Even though the metal is super thin, there’s not a single area that seems weak or flimsy. It’s light and it’s solid.Secondly, this is just a darn beautiful case. It comes with tempered glass on the sides and top which are darkened enough to hide cables and whatnot, but clear enough to see any RGB components clearly and beautifully.XPG has taken the best of all the computer cases before it and designed a beautiful case for custom builders in mind. From the outside, in. The tempered glass on the front and bottom rely on side air for intake and exhaust. This means the profile is smaller. It comes with a mesh filter for the top, front, and bottom to help prevent dust from accumulating inside the case. They’re easily removable and easy to clean.The top panel has easy buttons to identify for power, BIOS function, and RGB control. It comes with two fast USB ports and the new Type-C USB. Keep that in mind when getting your motherboard, because many mobos don’t come with the Type-C interface yet.The glass panels are easily removable for access to the massive interior. Another great aspect is that you don’t need any tools for this build. Having said that, some of the screws are kind of tight, and may need a screwdriver to loosen at first, but after that you’re good to go.XPG uses a clever silicon window design that lets you sneak your cables to the right side of the computer. They also serve as supports for SSDs which brings us to the next cool thing about this case. You can install 5 SSDs to the backside of the case which is more than enough for even advanced PC users. This helps keep the case super cool.But if you still haven’t upgraded to SSDs yet (what’s wrong with you?) there’s room for two HDDs at the bottom front and even a removable plate for a third HDD above the PSU area in front of the motherboard mount. The separation and placement of the HDD mounts means better thermal dissipation.What’s new to me is the mounting of the PSU. There’s a frame to be bolted to the PSU before installation and the frame is then mounted to the case. Not sure why this design was chosen, but it’s not a big deal and not a deal breaker. The PSU area is also... HUGE. There’s plenty of space for modular or non-modular PSU cables and the area will hold a PSU of any size comfortably.Not much to say about the motherboard mounting area other than you can mount any size motherboard you want. There’s even a handy window on the backside where the CPU sits to give you access to mount your CPU cooler.Finally, the Battle Cruiser comes with 4 pre-mounted fans that are super quiet. In fact, this is the quietest ATX case I’ve ever had. And with all that space available it will keep all your components nice and cool. I did move the front 120mm fans to the top to mount a 240mm radiator to the front. Swapping them out was nice and easy and there’s plenty of room to stow the excess wiring from the fans which keeps your build looking clean.In summary, there’s nothing negative I can say about this case. They have won me over, hands down. Although XPG is new to the scene, they’ve easily put maneuvered the top brands as the best case in my humble opinion.I’m giving the XPG Battle Cruiser five stars in every category. That means the next time I need another ATX case I won’t look for another brand. I’ll definitely be buying XPG again and I can’t wait to see what they come out with next.

This case lived up to and exceeded all expectations. The moment I took it out of the box, it felt like a quality build with tight fitting components. There are plenty of mounting options for drives, options for wire management, and air flow is excellent. The PSU I bought (also made by XPG) fits perfectly. It looks great, feels solid and it's definitely versatile. I did a lot of research in choosing the components for my build and settled on the BC for the case; I'm glad I did.

This was my first time ever building a computer so I wanted the best case I could possibly attain for this price bracket, and this one far exceeded my expectations. Very large on the inside for assembling, very useful grommet locations for feeding cords through, and most importantly, AMAZING airflow! I use a stock AMD prism cooler with my 3800x, and my thermals never really exceed 80F, my current fan setup is 3 intakes on the front of the case, which has awesome air flow due to the how the case has a fairly sized opening which leads into a dust filter, and then I have 3 exhaust fans on the top, and 1 exhaust at the back behind my CPU cooler. Very amazing case, extremely attractive design, would completely recommend.

This is a pretty great-looking case, which is all most people are ever going to see or care about. But you're probably reading this researching one of two questions:1. What's it like to do a build in this case, and is it worth the price?2. What is going on with these fan cables?Hopefully I can answer both honestly in this review. Let me pre-empt the folks who will complain about the cooler being upside down in the photos - the fan direction is correct, and I try to handle the CPU/cooler as little as possible, so I left it because the only harm is aesthetic.The GOOD:+Visually striking, with solid stock ARGB options and a whole lot more if you want to spend and awesome tempered glass all around.+Reasonably good airflow compared to similar cases, though this is secondary in design.+Lots of cable management and part mounting options, less an optical drive (which is less important these days). Very spacious front cavity to work in with clearance for chunky CPU coolers.Details: Looks sleek and has some great ARGB options (when you get them working). Tempered glass looks AWESOME and gives it that next level quality you're paying for. Airflow in the case is pretty good in stock configuration, and it comes stock with 4 fans (room for 3 more or an AIO, though I hear the latter is a tight fit). Great big main cavity to work in with lots of tie-offs and grommets, and the top panel is even very easily removable to work on the CPU power cables and cooler (picture 3).The MEDIOCRE::The Power Supply shroud is NOT removeable, and can be a pain to work around.:Access at the top and bottom of ATX or larger boards can be tight and restrictive.:As some reviewers have mentioned, USB-C is not fully realized in this case on the front panel (but, you know, it's a front panel USB port).Details: The shroud is frustrating, but can be worked around. I installed my cables to the board first and to my PSU last, which I think helped me plan better for cable routing, but wrecked me on PSU installation. I've got pretty big hands, but I managed to my whole hand into the PSU cavity where my wrist strap connects in the first picture to get around it. If I ever did another build (or if you want to learn from my mistake), I'd probably hook into my PSU first, then my board. While the grommets on the case are handy, the routing near the PSU, only those two cutouts next to the HDD mount were really useable, and lots of motherboards have important pins down there. At the top in the first image you can see the space for CPU power cable(s) is a little tight, except in the top left-hand corner. Save yourself the trouble and plan on running your cables through that corner and adding it to the tie-off for the rear fan. USB-C connector for the front panel isn't what most folks are looking for - I don't know the specifics personally, but I did notice a mismatch between my board and the cables I had available.The BAD:-The fan cables and wiring philosophy are atrocious pretty much from top to bottom. They're unintuitive in stock format, not well labeled, and on the short side.Yipes, what a pain this step was. It was the last step in my wiring too, which made it all the more frustrating. The stock daisy chain configuration is in the fourth picture, and if it looks like an unintelligible mess it's because it is. Hopefully I can save you a bunch of googling on this that I had to do, and there are two main things you need to know to make this easier:1) The default ARGB configuration for the fans is set up to manage your fan lights using a button on the front panel. The daisy chained connections shown here (picture 4) are actually meant to get the back fan on the same chain as the front fans, and it runs TO THE FRONT PANEL, NOT FROM IT. This is because they've done a return from the front panel as a SATA connection, which plugs right into your power supply. Nowhere in the manual does it say this, but if you leave everything as is and just hook-up that SATA cable, you should get your stock ARGB. I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out where the female end of the ARGB daisy chain was, and it turns out that wasn't needed for stock configuration (You'll also have 3 fan ARGB cables with male ends and plugs coming from the front that don't get connected to your board or anything else if you do this - I ended up just tying them off out of the way, unused). Now, if you want to run your ARGB from the board/software, you're going to have to figure out how to undo the daisy chain, and reconnect it in a way (or with a hub) that results in a female end that connects to your board. I simply could not be bothered at this point in the build to do that, and just wanted to get it working.2) The 3-pin fan connectors are ALSO daisy chained, but the female end that connects to your board is a bit easier to find than it is for ARGB (it has a pair of rails that slot onto your board pins for chassis fans). That being said, the daisy chain here makes it awkward to route in a clean way to a set of pins, and you're carrying along a bunch of plastic connectors that looks hideous if they are visible from the front of your build. I STRONGLY recommend that you disconnect this daisy chain between the back 1 fan and the front 3 fans (so you now have two female connectors; the original one daisy chains the front 3 fans, and the new one is the rear fan by itself). This means you'll need at least two fan connections on your motherboard (three if you count your CPU fan, but that one is usually dedicated and labelled separately). If your only options for chassis fans are right next to each other it might not be worth unhooking them, but if you have a board like mine where there are chassis fan connections in several places on the board, this could make your life a lot easier and your build cleaner, and from a diagnostic perspective, having your front and back fans separate could help you troubleshoot problems in the future.